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Photos: What it’s like to visit Scotland’s remote islands in offseason

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Photos: What it’s like to visit Scotland’s remote islands in offseason

Getty Images, Mikhaila Friel/Business Insider

  • I traveled to three Scottish islands right before the offseason in September.
  • The trip was fantastic and the stunning scenery blew me away.
  • However, some aspects of the trip, such as the unpredictable weather, were difficult.

I was born and raised in Scotland, but until recently I hadn’t spent much time visiting the country’s islands.

For years, I longingly devoured travel brochures and social media posts that showcased the beautiful and rugged landscapes of Scotland’s islands. In September, I finally got my chance to visit three islands: Barra in the Outer Hebrides, and Seil and Easdale in the Inner Hebrides.

My trip overlapped with the islands’ offseason, which lasts from the end of September until May. I didn’t consider the extent to which this would affect my trip, from the unpredictable weather to local businesses being closed.

The trip was still fantastic; the islands were full of picturesque beaches and rolling hills dotted with color. But if I were to island-hop in Scotland again, I’d surely visit during a different time of year.

Barra’s unpredictable weather was apparent from the moment I stepped off the plane onto the Scottish isle.

Mikhaila Friel traveled on a tiny plane to Barra, an island in Scotland.
Mikhaila Friel/Business Insider

I flew on a Loganair flight from Glasgow to Barra Airport, the only airport in the world with a runway on the beach.

The experience was magical, and I felt that I had arrived in a tropical destination thanks to the sunny weather which made the white sandy beach look picturesque.

The beach looked completely different before the flight back to Glasgow.

Passengers walk towards the plane.
Mikhaila Friel/Business Insider

In Scotland, the weather is ever-changing and we often joke that we have four seasons in one day. But even so, I was stunned by the airport beach’s gloomy transformation when it was time to travel back to Glasgow two days later. The sky was cloudy, the sea was gray, and tourists were wrapped up in puffy jackets and hats as they posed for photos.

It was also incredibly windy, and we were told that the flight could have been canceled if the strong winds continued (thankfully, it wasn’t).

The thistle is Scotland’s national flower, so I was hoping to find some on Barra’s beaches.

Scottish thistles.
tirc83/Getty Unages

Thistles are small, bristled plants that often have a purple or blue flower. A patriotic symbol, the thistle’s connection to Scotland dates back to 1470, when an illustration of one appeared on coins, according to Visit Scotland.

Thistles are common where I live in Glasgow. But even so, I was excited about the prospect of photographing the flower against the backdrop of Scotland’s islands.

But I made the mistake of visiting in September, when some thistles were already dead.

Dead thistles are pictured on a beach in Barra.
Mikhaila Friel/Business Insider

Although I photographed some purple thistles during my trip, many had already lost their color and were wilted.

Thistles are most commonly seen between July and September, according to the Royal Horticultural Society, the UK’s leading gardening charity. Next time, I’ll visit earlier in the year to ensure my chances of seeing them.

Also on Barra, I was surprised that many local businesses weren’t open full-time.

Local businesses in Barra weren’t open full-time.
Mikhaila Friel/Business Insider

My trip to Barra overlapped with the offseason, which lasts from the end of September until May. I didn’t think this was important when I initially booked the trip.

However, a couple of locals informed me that many restaurants and hotels close when tourists leave in the winter months.

There were some benefits to traveling during the offseason. For example, my partner and I were the only guests at the Isle of Barra Beach Hotel before it closed for the winter. The staff were lovely, and we were treated like VIPs.

But on the other hand, the lack of open businesses also made us feel like we were in a ghost town. Understandably, many businesses didn’t stay open all day like in my home city, Glasgow. Service-based businesses only accepted appointments, while others had reduced operating hours.

Before visiting Easdale Island, I envisioned rolling hills and quaint cottages.

An aerial view of flooded slate quarries on Easdale Island, Scotland.
Iain Masterton/Getty Images

After visiting Barra, my next destination was Seil and Easdale, neighboring slate islands in the Inner Hebrides.

Seil is connected to the mainland via a bridge and has about 550 residents while Easdale is reachable via ferry and has only 60 residents, according to its website. I was particularly excited to visit Easdale due to its small size; the island has one pub and restaurant but no grocery store.

The island is beautiful, filled with rolling green hills, views of the sea, and cozy cream cottages. I couldn’t wait to see it for myself.

Similarly to Barra, the weather in Easdale was dreary during my visit.

The island was beautiful.
Mikhaila Friel/Business Insider

Easdale was beautiful, but I found visiting slightly uncomfortable due to the stormy weather. As you would expect, there aren’t many local businesses on the island and no cars, so most activities are outdoor-based and involve walking.

Next time, I’ll be sure to visit earlier in the summer to make the most of the good weather.

I had been looking forward to the ferry journey to Easdale.

A small boat is pictured closed to Easdale Island.
kodachrome25/Getty Images

Easdale is accessible via a three-minute ferry journey from Seil, and round-trip tickets cost £2.20, or about $2.80, per person.

The ferry was open and exposed to the elements.

Mikhaila Friel pictured on the ferry to Easdale Island.
Mikhaila Friel/Business Insider

Before visiting Easdale, I had spoken to some islanders who said there are regular ferry services to and from the island on a small ferry that can hold 10 passengers.

My partner and I were the only passengers, in addition to two ferrymen, who were dressed in waterproof clothing. I was glad I remembered to bring a waterproof jacket, as there was no cover on the ferry, and the rainy weather meant the seats were drenched. I didn’t see any covered ferries during my visit, so those traveling to Easdale should be prepared for all kinds of weather on a ferry ride.

Upon arriving at the island, I noticed a handful of people waiting for the next ferry back to Seil.

A line of people waiting for the ferry.
Mikhaila Friel/Business Insider

My trip to Easdale fell on the same day as the World Stone Skimming Championships, a contest hosted annually on the island that is open to people from around the world.

When I arrived, the championships were just wrapping up, and I noticed lines of people waiting in the rain for the ferry.

Since the ferry can only hold 10 people, I can imagine that some people probably had to wait for a while during busy periods. Thankfully, I didn’t have to wait for long upon my return to Seil.

The island’s only pub was surprisingly busy during the offseason.

The island’s only pub was overcrowded.
Mikhaila Friel/Business Insider

The family-owned Puffer Bar and Cafe was just a short walk from where the ferry dropped me off. When I arrived, the pub was busy.

I had assumed the pub was busy because of the World Stone Skimming Championships, but one local told me that most of the competitors had already gone home and mostly locals were left.

Still, the atmosphere was lively and friendly and I could see why people wanted to visit.

I still had an amazing time, but if I were to island-hop in the future, I’d avoid the offseason.

The author is pictured on Easdale Island in the rain.
Mikhaila Friel/Business Insider

Barra, Seil, and Easdale were unforgettable destinations, and each island had its own distinct charm. I’m grateful I got to experience island-hopping, but next time, I’ll travel during Scotland’s warmer and busier months, such as June or July.

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