Photos: What it’s like to visit Scotland’s remote islands in offseason

I flew on a Loganair flight from Glasgow to Barra Airport, the only airport in the world with a runway on the beach.

The experience was magical, and I felt that I had arrived in a tropical destination thanks to the sunny weather which made the white sandy beach look picturesque.

In Scotland, the weather is ever-changing and we often joke that we have four seasons in one day. But even so, I was stunned by the airport beach’s gloomy transformation when it was time to travel back to Glasgow two days later. The sky was cloudy, the sea was gray, and tourists were wrapped up in puffy jackets and hats as they posed for photos.

It was also incredibly windy, and we were told that the flight could have been canceled if the strong winds continued (thankfully, it wasn’t).

Thistles are small, bristled plants that often have a purple or blue flower. A patriotic symbol, the thistle’s connection to Scotland dates back to 1470, when an illustration of one appeared on coins, according to Visit Scotland.

Thistles are common where I live in Glasgow. But even so, I was excited about the prospect of photographing the flower against the backdrop of Scotland’s islands.

Although I photographed some purple thistles during my trip, many had already lost their color and were wilted.

Thistles are most commonly seen between July and September, according to the Royal Horticultural Society, the UK’s leading gardening charity. Next time, I’ll visit earlier in the year to ensure my chances of seeing them.

My trip to Barra overlapped with the offseason, which lasts from the end of September until May. I didn’t think this was important when I initially booked the trip.

However, a couple of locals informed me that many restaurants and hotels close when tourists leave in the winter months.

There were some benefits to traveling during the offseason. For example, my partner and I were the only guests at the Isle of Barra Beach Hotel before it closed for the winter. The staff were lovely, and we were treated like VIPs.

But on the other hand, the lack of open businesses also made us feel like we were in a ghost town. Understandably, many businesses didn’t stay open all day like in my home city, Glasgow. Service-based businesses only accepted appointments, while others had reduced operating hours.

After visiting Barra, my next destination was Seil and Easdale, neighboring slate islands in the Inner Hebrides.

Seil is connected to the mainland via a bridge and has about 550 residents while Easdale is reachable via ferry and has only 60 residents, according to its website. I was particularly excited to visit Easdale due to its small size; the island has one pub and restaurant but no grocery store.

The island is beautiful, filled with rolling green hills, views of the sea, and cozy cream cottages. I couldn’t wait to see it for myself.

Easdale was beautiful, but I found visiting slightly uncomfortable due to the stormy weather. As you would expect, there aren’t many local businesses on the island and no cars, so most activities are outdoor-based and involve walking.

Next time, I’ll be sure to visit earlier in the summer to make the most of the good weather.

Easdale is accessible via a three-minute ferry journey from Seil, and round-trip tickets cost £2.20, or about $2.80, per person.

Before visiting Easdale, I had spoken to some islanders who said there are regular ferry services to and from the island on a small ferry that can hold 10 passengers.

My partner and I were the only passengers, in addition to two ferrymen, who were dressed in waterproof clothing. I was glad I remembered to bring a waterproof jacket, as there was no cover on the ferry, and the rainy weather meant the seats were drenched. I didn’t see any covered ferries during my visit, so those traveling to Easdale should be prepared for all kinds of weather on a ferry ride.

My trip to Easdale fell on the same day as the World Stone Skimming Championships, a contest hosted annually on the island that is open to people from around the world.

When I arrived, the championships were just wrapping up, and I noticed lines of people waiting in the rain for the ferry.

Since the ferry can only hold 10 people, I can imagine that some people probably had to wait for a while during busy periods. Thankfully, I didn’t have to wait for long upon my return to Seil.

The family-owned Puffer Bar and Cafe was just a short walk from where the ferry dropped me off. When I arrived, the pub was busy.

I had assumed the pub was busy because of the World Stone Skimming Championships, but one local told me that most of the competitors had already gone home and mostly locals were left.

Still, the atmosphere was lively and friendly and I could see why people wanted to visit.

Barra, Seil, and Easdale were unforgettable destinations, and each island had its own distinct charm. I’m grateful I got to experience island-hopping, but next time, I’ll travel during Scotland’s warmer and busier months, such as June or July.