Everything to remember from the Dior 2025 cruise show

In the center of the ballroom was a tartan suit. “It’s probably the only fancy fabric that resists fashions,” Christian Dior wrote in The Little Dictionary of Fashion. An emblematic material from Scotland, tartan inevitably brings us back to the traditional kilt, one of the centerpieces of Dior’s 2025 cruise collection.

Maria Grazia Chiuri initiated several collaborations with local designers and artisans to celebrate the fashion house’s strong ties to the country. These included young British designer, Samantha McCoach of The Kilt, and Harris Tweed. “I’ve worked with Harris Tweed in the past, but I never visited them before,” Chiuri said. “They are a beautiful company. We went to the museum and found this beautiful map, so we also worked on this beautiful blanket that we use for some of the looks in the show. We also chose the check, the colors… The special color was a more specific collaboration.”

The starting point was the latest book by author and historian Clare Hunter, who wrote a biography of Mary Stuart in Tudor England. The book, titled Embroidering Her Truth: Mary, Queen of Scots and the Language of Power, is an anthropological investigation of embroidery (another focus of the resort 2025 collection) as it becomes a political language and an expression of freedom. After discovering the excellence of Scottish craftsmanship, Maria Grazia Chiuri set out to reinvent traditional garments with a contemporary twist.

The blanket dress

The iconic tartan blanket, embellished with fringing, was draped around the body, yet still prescribed to the classic Dior silhouette. The waist was cinched with a belt (in some cases with a mini bag attached), while necklines varied from look to look, with some revealing the shoulders and others cut asymmetrically.

The punk kilt

The kilt was seamlessly incorporated into the Dior 2025 cruise collection, embracing the punk aesthetic. The pattern was paired with T-shirts, leather, and studded accessories.

The bustier accessory

Leaving aside (for once) the iconic Dior saddlebags, this year the bustier was unquestionably the must-have item at the Dior 2025 cruise runway show. Maria Grazia Chiuri designed bodices specifically like accessories, intended to be paired with whatever the wearer desires.

Embroidery as a symbol of freedom

The power of heraldic embroidery found a modern axis in the collection. From the softest to the most precious looks, the embroidery symbolized freedom.