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Scotland’s cheaper, quieter alternatives to Edinburgh to visit this summer
Summer means festival season. There is no city in the UK where this is truer than in Edinburgh, where the old town is filled with the events of one of Europe’s biggest, brightest cultural extravaganzas during August. Joining in, however, comes at a cost.
An average night’s lodgings in the Scottish capital during this August’s revelry will come in at £302.80 for a three-star property, according to hospitality insight providers Lighthouse – that’s compared to £89.09 for the same standard of stay in Scotland’s third-biggest city, Aberdeen.
Meanwhile, the most recent Visit Scotland research shows that some three million annual visitors descend on the Edinburgh region while Dundee, the fourth-largest city, and its surrounding Angus region, receives less than a sixth of as much tourist traffic. For those in search of a metropolitan break in Scotland this summer, it could be time to turn your attention to some of its other often-overlooked cities.
Celebrate 900 years of Stirling
One of Scotland’s oldest royal burghs, Stirling has heritage to match Edinburgh’s, without the crowds. Founded in 1124 and celebrating 900 years of existence all through 2024, Stirling’s centrepiece is its crag-topping castle. This structure was once the childhood home to perhaps the most storied Scottish monarch, Mary Queen of Scots. Just like Edinburgh, Stirling has cobbled streets and visitor-pleasing museums, such as the Old Town Jail. Stirling is also proud of its link to one of the most important battles ever fought on Scottish soil, Bannockburn.
Scottish king Robert the Bruce, born 750 years ago, is remembered at many locations countrywide this year. He defeated Edward II outside Stirling in a battle leading to re-establishment of Scottish independence from England. The Bannockburn Visitor Centre digitally recreates the titanic tussle within a compelling exhibition on the battle’s significance, set within winsome parkland. Stirling also has the grandest of several memorials across Scotland that are dedicated to freedom fighter William Wallace, The National Wallace Monument.
Stirling railway station is served by ScotRail, LNER and Caledonian Sleeper.
The Stirling Highland Hotel in the city centre has doubles from £108 in August, stirlinghighlandhotel.co.uk.
Enjoy a voyage of discovery in Dundee
The “City of Discovery” has always striven to periodically reinvent itself. Rising to riches with the boom of fibre jute in the 19th century (thousands of people worked in its jute mills), it has since become the hub of V&A Dundee, the first V&A museum outside London and Scotland’s first design museum, as well as the UK’s first purpose-built observatory (open over winter).
It is home to two historic ships, too: the RRS Discovery that Sir Robert Falcon Scott took to Antarctica and HMS Unicorn, Scotland’s oldest ship still afloat, which is celebrating 200 years on the water in 2024. No surprises, then, that the city has further talismanic galleries in store such as the McManus and the Dundee Contemporary Arts Centre. Don’t miss a sojourn to sparkling Broughty Ferry, a seaside suburb with enticing restaurants and pubs overlooked by a castle.
Dundee is served by CrossCountry, LNER, ScotRail and Caledonian Sleeper.
The Landmark Hotel and Leisure Club has doubles from £76.50 in August, thelandmarkdundee.co.uk.
Hit the historic heart of Scotland in Perth
Being on the doorstep of a ravishingly scenic region that features one of Scotland’s finest hotels (Gleneagles), its most celebrated restaurants (at The Glenturret Distillery and Gleneagles, again), its most luxurious treehouse accommodation (The Treehouses at Lanrick) and no end of magnificent forest-flanked, loch-flecked hill country has not helped Perth in getting its visitors to linger. But this is the year to do it.
The revamped Perth Museum is now the first permanent Scottish home in over 700 years for the Stone of Scone. This ancient coronation stone for Scotland’s monarchs until the 13th century, and the nation’s defining symbol, got nabbed by English King Edward I in 1296, was officially returned to Scotland in 1996 and secured its stunning new showcase in Perth this spring.
The city is also marking the 150th anniversary of its most prominent painter, JD Fergusson – who helped form influential turn-of-the-20th-century artistic movement the Scottish Colourists – by embellishing the permanent collection at Perth Art Gallery with many of his works. Just out of town, splendidly stately Scone Palace was where Scotland’s kings were crowned between the 9th and 13th centuries.
Perth is served by ScotRail, Caledonian Sleeper and CrossCountry.
The Salutation Hotel has rooms from £118.15 in August, strathmorehotels-thesalutation.com.
Get lively in the gateway to the Highlands, Inverness
People arrive in Inverness primed for a foray into the UK’s ultimate great outdoors, the Scottish Highlands. But before becoming immersed in those magical mountains and glens, it’s important to note that Inverness is the biggest beacon of culture hereabouts for a long, long way.
Visit the likes of legendary monster-frequented Loch Ness, poignant Culloden battlefield (where hopes for a Scottish monarch on a Scottish throne were decimated in 1746) or Scotland’s finest military fortification, Fort George, by day. Then hit the thrumming bar and restaurant scene in the closely bunched centre by night. Live music is Inverness’s lifeblood and something special is on at fabled venues like Hootananny or Gellions every night of the week.
This Highlands hotspot is also one of Britain’s best places for bottlenose dolphin-watching. Around 200 of the cetaceans call the nearby Moray Firth home. Merkinch Nature Reserve is a handy, land-based locale for spotting the creatures cavorting, while Dolphin Spirit run boat trips from the marina near the city’s Kessock Bridge.
Dundee is served by CrossCountry, LNER, ScotRail and Caledonian Sleeper.
No.41 serviced town house has two rooms for 3–4 guest for £395 per night in August, no41townhouse.co.uk.
Look on the bright side around Aberdeen
Aberdeen’s nickname “The Granite City” – bestowed for the stone that fashioned much of the city – does little justice to this smart east coast port. A superb sandy beach stretches from near the centre to Newburgh, 13 miles north, while a perfectly preserved 19th-century fishing village, Footdee, huddles around the harbour.
The city’s oldest residence, 1545-built Provost Skene’s House, has reopened following a refurbishment in 2021 as an eye-opening museum spotlighting some 100 individuals who helped shape the city through original interactive displays. One of the most lavish-looking granite buildings is Aberdeen Art Gallery, where an art collection of UK-wide importance contains work by Scottish great Sir Henry Raeburn and the Scottish Colourists, as well as by international names like Monet, Barbara Hepworth and Tracey Emin.
You’ll eat extremely well in Aberdeen, too. Restaurants include classily understated Amuse by Kevin Dalgleish – a showcase for the best in Scotland-sourced seafood, it scored a mention in the 2024 Michelin Guide.
Aberdeen is served by CrossCountry, LNER, ScotRail and Caledonian Sleeper.
Malmaison Aberdeen has rooms from £98 a night, malmaison.com.