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Scottish islands guide: The best destinations to visit in 2024
Wild and unspoilt, a trip to the Scottish islands is a chance to go off-grid and visit the country’s rugged coastline at its most awe inspiring. With 94 inhabited islands to choose from, most trips begin in the faded Victorian port town of Oban, the seafood capital of Scotland and the jumping-off point for the Hebrides. From here, ferries and private yacht charters venture to classic beauty spots like Mull and Skye, as well as far-flung destinations such as Lewis and Harris, which feel utterly remote.
The islands along the west coast are roughly divided into the Inner and Outer Hebrides, both long island chains – some attached by causeways and foot ferries – with mile upon mile of windswept white sand beaches just waiting to be explored. Hike, cycle or sail between picturesque harbour villages and uninhabited wilderness, the landscape steeped in ancient history and home to some of the world’s biggest seal and puffin colonies. Elsewhere, swim, windsurf or ride horses along powdery beaches, explore Bronze Age settlements, and sip whisky to the sound of Hebridean folk music. Life slows down here, and there may only be one ferry every couple of days, so plan your trip carefully and leave time for spontaneity.
Isle of Skye
Skye is Scotland’s largest island, home to mountain peaks, lochs and glorious beaches. The beauty of the so-called ‘misty isle’ is no secret, but its flourishing foodie reputation adds an extra dimension to a visit here: Skye’s native oysters, hand-dived scallops and cold-water langoustines are considered some of the finest in the world. In recent years, a handful of talented young chefs moving or returning to the island have cemented its culinary status. Edinbane Lodge, a 16th century pub with a tasting menu and native islander Calum Montgomery at the helm, is an excellent way to dip your toe into Skye’s famed produce. Over on the picturesque Waternish Peninsula, meanwhile, Michelin-starred Loch Bay delivers classical fine dining in a delightfully simple former crofter’s cottage.
Aside from feasting, Skye’s main magic is found in the spectacular scenery. Take a hike to the crystal-clear blue Fairy Pools, located on the northern slopes of the Black Cuillin range, or enjoy a blustery walk along the dramatic cliff at Staffin Beach. Other natural wonders include the Old Man of Storr, Kilt Rock, and the Quiraing mountain pass.
Where to stay: Kinloch Lodge
Originally built as a farmhouse and then used as a shooting lodge, Kinloch Lodge is an island icon that celebrates its 50th birthday this year. The hotel’s ethos and passion for seasonal produce is championed by chef Jordan Webb, who has installed polytunnels and herb gardens and forages each day from the loch’s shore. The rooms are sumptuous yet traditional, with wide views across Loch na Dal and out to the Sound of Sleat.
Rooms from £460 per night, including dinner and breakfast
Isle of Mull
Mull is the island for hearty outdoor pursuits: think long rambles through the wilderness, mountain climbing and wild swimming. It’s a twitchers paradise, home to the rare white-tailed eagle, as well as merlins, buzzards and hen harriers. To be immersed in nature, follow one of the forest paths from Tobermory to Aros Park, passing gushing waterfalls and panoramic ocean views. Hike further and you’ll reach the Rubha nan Gall Lighthouse, passing spectacular views over Calve Island, and the so-called ‘Small Isles’ in the distance. Back in the pretty seaside town of Tobermory, enjoy an award-winning scoop from Isle of Mull Ice Cream, and watch the fishing boats landing their catch before lunching in one of the waterside restaurants.
Where to stay: Isle of Mull Hotel and Spa
Mull’s most luxurious hotel does justice to the island’s surrounding waters with its restaurant, Òran na Mara – Gaelic for ‘Song of the Sea’ – showcasing the area’s outstanding shellfish. The Isle of Mull Hotel and Spa’s Wellness Deck is where nature and indulgence combine; a private sanctuary with a secluded sauna and hot tub surrounded by shrubland. There’s also a 17-metre sea view swimming pool and an extensive spa, offering a range of massage treatments and thermal mud bathing.
Rooms from £129 per night
Islay and Jura
The tiny twin islands of Islay and Jura are known for one thing: whisky. Peaty soil, natural springs, barley fields, seaweed and many centuries of expertise all play their part in this extraordinary product, widely agreed to be the finest in the world. There are so many gin and whisky distilleries on Islay alone that you could spend a whole holiday getting to know your Laphroaig from your Lagavulin. Kill two birds with one stone with a visit to Bruichladdich, which also makes Botanist Gin, making for a great day of private tastings and distillery tours.
It’s not all long-standing legacy distilleries, either: the Islay Boys and Ian Macleod Distillers are currently putting the finishing touches on their gleaming new single malt distillery, Laggan Bay, set to open in 2025. Over on Jura, family-run business Deer Island Distillery makes small-batch spiced rum, with a strong focus on community engagement within the island.
Where to stay: The Machrie
Aside from sipping drams, Islay is an objectively gorgeous island, with centuries-old castles and mile upon mile of pristine beaches. Spend a few nights at the five-star Machrie Hotel, famed for its 18-hole championship golf course. The hotel is just back from the beach, with the golf course overlooking the ocean, and has just 47 rooms and lodges, with crackling fires and cosy fabrics making it a year-round destination.
Rooms from £325 per night
Tiree
The nickname ‘Hawaii of the North’ conjures up images of white sand beaches and rolling turquoise waves, which this is exactly what you’ll find on the island of Tiree. The windswept surf isle is the most westerly of the Inner Hebrides, and when the sun comes out, the colours – if not the temperatures – are positively tropical. Though the island still has plenty of drizzly days, Tiree’s position in the Gulf Stream means milder weather and more sunshine than any other Scottish island.
For some of the best surfing in Scotland, head to Balevullin beach, where Blackhouse Watersports runs a surf school from a tiny beach hut. Islander Martin and his family have surfboards and kitesurfing equipment for hire, as well as thick winter wetsuits and all the gear. Back on dry land, spend a morning horse riding on the beach along the sweeping sands of Balinoe, or hire mountain bikes to explore the further reaches of the island. Aside from watersports, life on the island feels remote and peaceful, with a singular pub and just a couple of seasonal restaurants. Check out micro-brewery and restaurant, Ceabhar Restaurant & Bun Dubh Brewing, located in Sandaig on the west of the island.
Where to stay: The Reef Inn
The Reef Inn is a charming boutique hotel in the centre of the island, a place that combines Nordic design with bohemian surf-shack charm. The rooms are chic, with draped linens, deep standalone baths and a white-washed aesthetic that’s a welcome break after an onslaught of tartan and taxidermy. The hotel’s restaurant is laidback, with plenty of fresh seafood and a small cocktail menu featuring the island’s own gin. The best part? The homemade cookies left in your room each night.
Rooms from £130 per night
