The coastal corner of Scotland that’s shamefully under-visited

Today, kayakers and paddleboarders nose in and around these same coastal features to reach otherwise inaccessible beaches, or to get closer to the thousands of seabirds that breed on the St Abb’s Head National Nature Reserve from April to July.

An outdoorsy vibe has been adopted further along the coastal path, too, particularly on the section between St Abbs and Eyemouth, luring locals from Edinburgh, many of whom have holiday homes here – some of them have even decided to relocate to the area.

It’s easy to see why they come. With a small population and plenty of space to play, Berwickshire is ripe for adventure sports and activities.

Both diving and snorkelling have taken off here, thanks to some of the clearest coastal waters in the whole of the British Isles and a soft coral reef with colourful marine life. Wild swimming is also popular – and it’s not unusual to see people practising yoga on the beach before or after a cold dip – while nature walks are the perfect tonic for the overworked and overstressed.

Reasons to visit Berwickshire, Scotland in 2024

Among the best beaches on the east coast of Scotland

There are many lovely beaches along the Berwickshire coast, but Coldingham Sands, just a 10-minute walk south along the coast path from St Abbs is the kind of beach where you’ll dream of owning a beach house one day. There’s a cool café, a wide expanse of soft golden sands, rock pools, safe swimming – from June through to September lifeguards are on patrol – colourful beach huts, wildlife-rich grasslands, even surf lessons.

Further north, past St Abb’s Head, Pease Bay is another gorgeous sandy beach popular with surfers and families, this time framed by red sandstone cliffs and within walking distance of the village of Cockburnspath.

Walk round the villages

Aside from sheep farming, fishing is the main traditional industry of Berwickshire, as you’ll discover by exploring its unpretentious villages. In St Abbs, an operational fishing harbour, you can buy lobster and crab straight from the boat. If St Abbs looks familiar it’s because it starred as New Asgard in Avengers: Endgame – an association celebrated in the visitor centre above the harbour, even if not all locals are proud of the link.